232 
P2R5 



PENMAR 



and the Caverns of 



V 



Lura Y. 



A GUIDE BOOK 



BYE.S.R!LEir,JR. 



PRICE 25 CTS. 



AIJNAPOLIS, MD. 



Daily Record Printtnq Opficf. 
1882, 




Glass ' -' ■^■^ 
Copyright )^^.^ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 



^ 



TO 



PEN-MAR 



and the Caverns of 




4. r^ 

'C->^ A GUIDE BOOK. 



BY E. S. RILEY, JR. 



PRICE 20 CTS, 



JUN 14 1883 y 



ANNAPOLIS, MD. 

Daily Record Prixting Office. 

1882. 






ft^Eiitered according to net oi Congrosp, May 27, 18S2, by 

E. S. RILEY, JR., 
Tn the oflloe of the liihmrian, ofCongres?, at Washington. 






r 



TO PEN-MAR AND LURAY. 



[] 

CHAPTKK I. 



FROM ANNAPOLIS To I'KN-NfAR. 
[]- 

--. >.j.-.j|,.v.>>. A ride by rail from Annapolis to 
< >(lenton is not interesting- ; but the 
■ ad from Odenton to Baltimore is 
■cidedly. Here we s\Yeep along 
rcat fields of melons and sweet pota- 
toes, the sentinels of a huge truck 
region that fills the markets of Bal- 
timore with the best vegetables in the 
ii)d; there we see the picturesque 
mill that has refused to give up the 
silvery stream for its motive power, 
for the stronger arm of steam, and far 
away slope the lovely valleys of Baltimore county, dotted with 
luxuriant fields, noble groves, and handsome houses of the 
thrifty farmers and wealthy merchant princes of that rich sec- 
tion. Trimming the very edge of the city for a few moments' 
passing in quick succession the fine buildings iSt. Agnes Hos- 
pital, St. Mary's Industrial School, and the House of Refuge, 
the train darts suddenly into the first of those magnificent 
tunnels that undermine Baltimore and give ingres3 and eg- 
ress for teeming thousands that daily travel hither and thith- 
er over the groaning tracks of the Baltimore and Potomac, the 
Western Maryland, and ISorthern Central Railroad. These 
companies use this tunnel in common — the two last roads by 
paying a royalty to the Baltimore and Potomac. Just before 
the train reaches tlie mouth of the tunnel, there is a gre-at 



MOUNTAIN VIEW. 



TO PEX-M Al^ AM) THE 




GEKMANTOWN GORUE. 



CAVERNS OF LURAY. 5 

banoing as the windows come down. A novice does not un- 
derstand it, but should he leave his window up, the suffocat- 
ing smoke would enlighten his understanding. How well we 
recollect the first trip we made through the tunnel with the 
window up. The smoke was intolerable but the withering, 
indignant look cf an habitue of the road was a great deal 
worse. One interesting fact connected with these tunnels is 
that they cost $4,000,000. 

At Charles street station, Baltimore, the traveler to Pen- 
Mar has forty minutes to wait, and though it gives a good op- 
portunity for a short walk in the northern section of a grow- 
ing city and the sight of fine houses and a few public build- 
ings, it is advisable for passengers who wish a pick of seats in 
the Pen-Mar train to go on to Calvert Station, and walk three 
squares to the Hillen street Station of the Western Maryland 
Road. This train starts at nine and there is plenty time for 
all this — otherwise \ ou may have to take a back seat. 

After one false alarm, suddenly the traiii snorts up. At the 
gate a stupid and stubborn official looks at our tickets and 
said that was not our train We knew belter, pushing past 
our well infornifcd railroad man, we appealed to the conduc- 
tor — the true tvpe of a Western Maryland farmer, brushed up 
with railroad knowledge and polished down with a railroad 
uniform. It was right, of course, whoever knew an editor to 
be wrong. 

Under headway fairly and steaming swiftly up the beautiful 
valley that spreads out on either side of the Western Mary- 
land road, the first thoughtful act of the railroad officials be- 
gins--maps of the surrounding country of our destination, 
filled with tabular and other information, are distributed to the 
passengers. 

For over an hour we sweep by garden spots, green hills; 
and fertile meadows, each ornamented with neat houses, or 
liaralets and villages. Reisterstown appeared the trimmest 
of all. It is ncrt surprising that this section, with all the pas- 
toral delights and country d^intie,s should accommodate iuin- 
dreds of summer boarders. 

Thirty miles up the road the first huge red barn was seen — 
the sign we were fully in the heart of Western ^Earyland and 
an'l still another that we were not so far from Pennsylvania 
either. Great barns, large houses, some substantial bricks 
that looked like they had represented more than one genera- 
tion of prosperity now came in sight. 

Just above the Union Bridge the faint glimmer of blue 
along the western horizon presents the first glimpse of the 
mountains. How excited the passengers become ; leaving 
their seats and stretching their nt-cks to view the engaging 
scene. Here it seemed as if the Western Maryland road had 



l\) PEN-MAli AND TIIK 




GERMANTOWN GLPJN. 




BLUE RIDGE STATIOT^ 



CAVERNS OF LURAY. 7 

like somo great auger bored its way through Lhe roek ribbed- 
hills — "eternal as the sun.*' A few miles more and we ap- 
proach the foot of the mountains. Now the range is divided. 
No longer the blue crests and lotty summits appear alone on 
our left — they stretch out before us on our right, and bar our 
passage to the clouds, but the locomotive Samson, carrying 
our train and seven handsome cars, is not discouraged. He 
plants his feet s(ro*ngly in- the ground and bowing his hoad 
and bending his huge back to the task, fairly groans in spirit 
as he begins the task of ascension. The vistas open. Miles to 
the right is a great gap in the everlasting hills, and between 
them lie the teeming vales of Northern Maryland and southern 
Pennsylvania, beyond is another range ot sea-blue mountains 
which lift their heads to heaven and kiss the clouds. An- 
othe.i stretch of a few miles and the second gap opens to view 
Gettysburg and yet another blue line of mountains. 

The ascent has fairl\ begun- the train groans, and the en- 
gine puffs and blows as upward we move — once so slowly 
that we were merely creeping. The mountains can now be 
almost touched with our finger ends for we are no longer 
hard by — we are on the Blue Ridge themselves. 

Even on these hill-tops the silvery streams of gurgling 
water that we had seen below continue merrily to course their 
way to the Chesapeake, lingering long enough however on 
the way to make green the meadow and fertile the field. Side 
by side with nature's courses, the industrious hand of man 
has opened up roads from valley to hill-top, and from hill- 
top to valley again. 

Near the summit of the mountain two little girl moun- 
taineers stood on the road side, in exceedingly humble appar- 
el, and waived us on and appeared as much delighted in giv- 
ing us their futile encouragement as the excursionists were 
amused to receive if. 

Ijooking back we find that the train has crossed one range, 
and mountains are behind us, but we are pressing on to still 
greater achievements. The panorama below is always chang- 
ing — delightful views c(une and disappear for other pictures, 
as we cling to the side of the mountain, plunge through a cut, 
or tremble on the height of a "fill-up." 

In going up the mountains the best views are on the right; 
the thoughtful traveler will take this side up and the left com- 
ing down. 

The train has stopped at Pen-Mar. There is something ex- 
citing in standing on the borders of two lands. These West- 
ern Maryland road officials have acted on this common thrill 
that makes on a small plane "all mankind akin," and have 
erected a sign ])ost just at a station bearing the legend "Mary- 



ro I'KN-MAK AM) 11 IE 




HIGH P>1<1I)c;E AliOVE MECaANit:sT()\VN. 




SCEa'EKY NEAK DRERFIELT). 



CAVERNS OF LURAW 9 

land" on one side, and "Pennsylvania" on the other, and 
who is so dumb and insensate as not to take one step from 
^'Dixie" into Pennsylvania? 

Sign-posts and State lines fade before the magnificence of 
the view before us. We do not stop here however, resisting 
even the inviting dinner bells, (yes, the proprietor comes 
down the hill with one in each hand,) of a side restaurant 
that enterprisingly ofters ham, and bread and coifee for twenty 
cents, A walk or' several hundred yards on a road, always 
on the ascent, brings us to ti.e hotel, the dancing pavillion 
and to the vehicles whose owners vie with each other in dilat- 
ing upon the superiority of their equi])ages to take you up 
to High Rock, yet two miles away. 

High Rock has no chprms now until dinner has been 
discussed. It is noon by the sun, it is evening by the appetite. 
At the liotel a good dinner, well served and cooked and 
sufficient in quantity, is provided for a half dollar. 

For a quarter for adulis and fifteen cents for each child, 
)'0u can select any team you wish to take you to High Rock. 
All tickets are purchased at the pavillion, and these are recoo-- 
nized for passage by any of the conveyances. As you go up 
a fifteen-cent caupon is taken from the adult's tickets, and a 
ten cent one from the child's. When you return you give the 
balance to the driver, and that pays your passage down on 
any team you may select. It you walk down, rather a dusty 
and uninteresting road, you can go to tlie pavillion and have 
lialf tickets redeemed in money. 

Tlie ride to High Rock is a dusty ascent. High Rock is ap-. 
propriately named — a high bolder that in the convulsions 
that built these backbones of the earth, made a frantic leap 
for air and liberty from the seething cauldron that fused its 
elemental ])arts. Stopped on its progress to the Heavens, 
it fed back upon the mountnin top — a huge monument of its 
own folly. 

The enterprising managers of Pen -Mar have not left na- 
ture unaided. They have built a large and substantial ob- 
servatory upon it — three stories high. The highest point 
exposes one too much to the glare of the sun — the second 
story is the best for observation. 

From this stupendous elevation the vallev of Cumberland 
is before the eye of the observer. To the east and right a 
great blue spur of the Blue Rid-e. barely shuts ffom sight the 
town of Gettysburg — immortal in history. As the eye comes 
up the valley toward the west, AVaynesboro, Pennsylvania, 
can l)e distinctly seen like a toy town in tlie distance, north- 
ward GreencastJe i§ faintly discerned at the foot of the south 
mountains, westward tlie suioke from Ha^ierstown rises in 



]0 



TO PKX-MA]{ AM) I'JIK 




^j^"^^ ■ '>lr** '' " .7J 



VIEW NEAR SABILLASVILLE 



C^AVERN.S OF J.UKAY. 11 

tlic hazy atmosphere, and some other suialler towns near the 
Virginia line, nestles at the foot of he Blue Kidge. Between 
all these interspersed with railroads, lie hundreds of farme 
whose trim fields look like little garden spots from the eleva- 
tion from whieh we view them. Everything speaks of happi- 
ness, thrift, peace, prosperity. Down the rocky heights of 
the Blue Ridge we look upon trees rooted in the unfriendly 
rocks, and on and on the eye goes till the identity of trees arc 
lost save where some solitary monarch holds the field alone. 
Over village, town, field, farm, farm house, woodland, the 
eye sweeps, down the valley fifty miles, and over it for thirty 
more, the eye goes on and on u-itil the sapphire wall of the 
South Mountains rise to the clouds and stop the advancing 
vision. 

What a stupendous idea this prospect gives of the Al- 
mighty! Here on the dizzy heights of this sublime peak, an 
aM-e steals in the breast that makes one think he has drawn 
closer to the Creator and can feel as he has never felt before 
TT'is omnipotence. 

One look more — and we leave the sublime prospect, the de- 
lightful mountain breeze, the cheerful chatting of friendly but 
unknoAvn companicns, and ride down the rugged sides of the 
mountain to Pen-Mar. 

Here the mazy waltzers were at work ; now the sober qua- 
drille — but he who has seen a ball at the Naval Academy, cau 
OMly smile at the efforts of these novices. 

There are many agreeable features of this resort, there were 
plenty of seats and drinking fountains every 'S'yhere. 

A review of the Cumberland Valley from Pen-Mar, a list- 
less waiting of a few minutes at the station, a rush for a good 
seat, and the train is off down the mountain side, taking in 
with it the view fiom Horse Shoe Curve; and a hundred otlier 
smaller but delightful scenes of meadow, field, grazing cattle 
and growing crops. 

Night closes in before Baltimore is reached, and the cheer- 
ful line of sentinel lamps is hailed with a faint glow of pleas- 
ure. As the train darts through the tunnel at Pennsylvania 
avenue, we bid adieu to fellow-travellers but retain the most 
delightful guests in the halis of recollection. 



13 



TO ]»KN-MAU AND 'WW. 







scenp:hy abovk MECIIANICSTOVVN. 



CAVERNS OF LURAY. 



13 



CHAPTER II. 

— G — 
From Baltimore to Hagerstown. 

• — [] 



It was a few 
months later 
^^-^ and we were 
^"^^ again on the 
road. The 
Bal t i in ore 
Oriole folded 
t^ wings on the night of 
October 12th and went t-o 
sleep for a year. The 
morning after we bor- 
rowed the pinions of 
trip to the famous Cav- 
Lnray. From Baltimore our 
s up the picturesque Western 
ilroad in the train that 
street static n at 7.35, 

t was the third time with- 
is that we had traveled 
delightful country, yet 
f its forests, the neatness 
and farm-houses, and 
the giandue\ of its mountain scenery did not fail in attrac- 
tiveness. 

The train was loaded with healthy specimens of pater- 
familias of Western Maryland and their families returning 
from the Oriole. Among them we saw a cpiaiiit looking young 




14 



'10 PEN-MAR AND THK 



Sfe^. -=> 



^ 



^'^14'^?^ 




S 



■i 






Yy. 



ASCICNDING THE BLUE RIDGK. 



CAVP:RNS of LURAY. 15 

giri — evidently of the Wynbrennarian sect — ifone is to judge 
by the ancient pattern of her bonnet and the sad sorabreness 
of its colors. Her whole attire was unique, but in spite of its 
tints, that made its singular — there was nothing repulsive 
about it. There were three of these young ladies together — 
two were robust and rotund in form, the third lithe — but 
all were ruddy and cheerful children of the saints. 

Wnile the train waited at Union Bridge on account of a 
slight accident ahead everybody, it seemed, wanted rations. 
It is a physiological fact that there is great sympathy between 
revolving car-wheels and a traveling stomach. The male 
owners of these useful organs began almost immediatel}^ a 
system of foraging around the town of Union Bridge. The 
stores, the single restaurant near the depot, and the railroad 
hotel were scoured for something to eat. As these failed to 
supply the necessary rations, a wider range was made, and the 
grocery stores nextfell under tribute, and then the outskirts of 
the village Avere reconnoitred. 

An hour and more's waiting and we were off. As we passed 
along the mountain's wooded sides, we had opportunity to 
observe the trees of the woods now turning to resplendent 
foliage nnder an autumn sun. Tiie cedar, tliat evergreen of 
Southern Maryland, was not to be seen on the mountain side. 
la its place was tiie sha])ely spruce pine, sycamore, pine. 
<'hestnut, oak, maple and dog wood. 

The Valley between Horse Shoe Curve, with its autumn 
tints and foliage, lying today as peaceful as the summer ocean, 
suggested the Happy Valley of Rasselas. 

We sweep rapidly ])ass Ren Mar. Before us opens the fer- 
tile valley of Cumberland. As the train dashes in and out of 
skirts of woods, the valley, like the pictures of a kaleidscope, 
changes in scene and vista.. The garden spots that, a few 
weeks ago, we saw from High Rock, are now large, well-tilled 
fields, giving plenty and prosperity to their industrious own- 
ers. 

A mile or so beyond Pen-Mar, we reach Edgemont. Here 
a branch of the Western jNIaryland Road runs up to Waynes- 
boro, Five Forks, Attenwald, N. Franklin, Chambersburg 
and Shippensburg. This with other enterprises and connections 
of the ^Vestern Maryland management shows the ability of its 
able President, J. M. Hood, and it does not take a prophet to 
see, if he remains at the head of the company, the Western 
Maryland has a magnificent future before it. 

At one o'clock, two hours behind time, we reached Hagers- 
town. The engine of the Western Maryland road is shifted — 
and Avithout the passengers changing cars, the locomotive of 
the Shenandoah Valley Railroad, is coupled to our train, and 
it dashes towards Sharpsburg. 



16 



TO PKX-MAR AND THK 




A PPiiU ACHING PEN-MAK. 



CAVEKNS OF I.URAY. 17 



CHAPTER III. 

— D— 

Feom Hagerstownto Luray. 

[] 

I do not believe i\iiy locomotives have'a shriek that can rival 
the Shenandoah's in unearthliness. 

The approach to Sliarpsburg is bounded by mountain 
ranges right and left. Beside us lay the memorable battle 
ground of Sharpsbnrg. How peacefully the fields sleep today! 
how green the grass grows fertilized by the blood of gallant 
men and nameless heroes, where 

'Glory guards willi solemn lound 
The bivKuau of tlio dead!" 

A ride of fifteen miles through lands rich, reddish, rocky, 
brings us to the blue Potomac and "t'le raging canal" about 
which the Maryland politicians squabble so much. 

Over the br'dge, with a delightful prospect of water, and 
bank, and green, on either side, and we are on sacred soil. It 
is true the war is over and the passions of that contest have 
given way to anew burstof sanctified patriotism, but, in spite 
of these, there is something about the land of Lee that tnrills 
us when we touch it. 

^ Shepherdstown is the first place we reach in West Vir- 
ginia. At this place a sharp fight occurred in 1862, (ien. A. 
P. Hill making a successful assault upon two corps of the 
Federal Army and driving them in the river. Shepherdstown 
is noted for the beauty of its ladies ; but we did not tarry long 
enough to test the truth of this gallant assertion. AVe passed 
so rapidly through it, that we had time only to notice a very 
fine church, and a si^rn on a blacksmith shop with this leo-end 
—"No Lofen." 

In this section wild grasses grow with a luxuriance that 
rival harvests in other places. 
9 



18 



TO PKN-MAR AM) THE 



S2rW 









O WINGS' CREEK. 



CAVERNS OF LITRAY. i? 

Seven lllile^^ tVoai Shcphcrdslowii is the Sheuaiuloali JiiuC' 
tlon. As we reached this pUice and h)oked out the ear-wiu- 
dow, we could see below us the beautifully graded and bed- 
ded Baltimore and Ohio, (Metropolitan Branch,) winding its 
way from the arteries of the west to the heart of the East — 
Baltimore. 

Passengers can reach Luray by the Isaltimore and Ohio 
also, by tap)>ing the Shenandoah Vabc}' at Shenandoah 
Junction. 

Five miles I'roni the Shenandoah Juuction is Charleston, 
the capital of Jetiter.son county. It is a charming little town 
and makes a beautiful picture v/ith its neat houses, green 
avenues, and many spires. Three quarters of a mde from 
this place, plainly seen from the train, is the hill on which 
John Brown was hung. It is an elevated situation and seems 
to have been selected with a view to let everybody see this 
tragic spectacle. Some years ago a man by the name of 
William Wilson bought the very lot on which the execution 
took place and erected a house, and like the old woman "wlio 
lived under the hill," if he's "not dead, he lives there still.'' 

From Hagerstown to Charlestown, ti.e same style of farm- 
ing, the same thriftincss, and the same prosperity are visible 
as in Western Maryland. Tiie very toi)Ography of that pros- 
perous region is here, — mountains, mountains, everywhere, 
blue, lofty, inspiring. 

Eleven miles from Charleston is Berryville, a neat and 
prosperous town of fifteen hundred inhabitants. Just as we 
pass Berryville, we enter Viro-iuia — grand old Virginia. Thin 
is the fourth State we have touched since morning — Maryland, 
Pennsylvania, AVest Virginia, and Virginia. 

AVc have been traveling the last hour and a half in t\\n 
famous Shenandoah Valley. Ricli in soil, rich in story, rich 
in heroes. Tiiis A^alley begins at Shepherdstown and ends 
with the I^uray — a distance of forty miles. All .along this 
grand valley, of which it is said that when Sheridan uad leffc 
ii, a crow in flying across it would have to carry its rations, 
were seen flocks of sheep and herds ot cattle, the sure signs of 
thrift and prosperity. 

At l\iverton, distant forty miles .south of the Potomac, we 
were informed the Shenandoah Valley cuds and the Luray 
begins. 

It would be difiicult to find a nore picturesque place than 
the hamlet of Rivcrton. Situated at the Junction of the 
Northern and Southern lorks of the Shenandoah, its beautiful 
cottages, located upon the rising hills bel.ween the rivers, are 
backed in the distance by a magniflcent landscape that ends 
in a sublime range of loftv mountains. Along the river 



2£) 



TO PKX-MAll AM) THK 




TMBKHLANl) VALLKY FROM PEN-MA.R STATION. 



CAVERNS OF LURAY. 21 

bank, the vino-draped rocks tlu't liold the Northern iShenaii- 
doah in place, frame with beauty the teeming factory thasb 
gives, doubtless, the prosperity we notice* 

The railroad in this section follows t'<e Shenandoah, south 
branch, for some miles, and the scenerv is delightful. 

Suddenly our train stopped. A workman blasting rock 
had flagged that a piece of rock was on the track. In getting, 
off the track, his foot slipped, he drew in his head to save 
that, and caught the blow on his shoulder. ''I'm a dead 
man," he said when he was picked up ; but in a few minutes 
he revived, refused the liquor proffered, and begaU' walking 
towards the workmen at the blast. 

In passing over this new road, we ciosseda tresstle work — 
110 feet high. If anybody enjoyed this elevated })osition 
whilst the train creeped and the timbers crackled, we did not 

At 5 o'clock two hours and a half behind time, we arrived' 
at Luray. 



22 



TO PKX-MAI{ AM) TUK 




'U,uiicu^ a'^ ^/y^^v^fc 



CAVEKXS OF LUKAY. 23 



CHAPTER l\. 
— [] 

LURAY. 
[] 

Nature tried its dexterous hand in creatino; the Luray 
Valley. Standing; near the centre of this lovely plain, you 
may turn the arc of the horizon and at every point of the 
compass, save a small stretch in the west, great mountains 
toss their tops to heaven. Beginning in the North th'e Blue 
Ridge swings completely around the valley to the West. The 
Massenuttan mountains then take up the noble stretch of hills 
until the Blue Ridge is met again. The Valley appears, as 
judged by the eye, to be in its narrowest part six miles wide, 
and about twelve long. In the centre of the valley the 
Hawk's Bill Creek, a small but picturesque stream, meanders 
along and divides the tovn of Luray. Tiie town of Luray! 
AVhoever saw a quainter village ? streets up-hill and down 
dale, pavements scarce to speak of, lamps at night none, 
prosperity little, inhabitants six hundred, newspapers two, 
churches a half-dozen, an antiquated Court House, an excel- 
lent new public school building, intelligent people, courteous 
manners, nobody handsome, nobody ugly, nobody apparently 
wealthy, and nobody suffering. 

This is the old town as the Shenandoah Valley Railroad 
Company found it a few years ago. The old town, west of 
the railroad remains, but Luray "saw another sight" when 
the railroad company and the Luray Cave and Hotel Com- 
pany put in their appearances. A large freight house has 
been built near the railroad, a fine Restaurant called -'The 
Excursion House" has been erected near the depot for the 
accomodation of excursionists to the cave, and a splendid 
hotel for those who come from afar to see the caverns, and wish 
to spend the niglu or to stay any length of time to enjoy the 
delightful air, the picturesque scenery, and the mountain 
rambles that this romantic valley affords. 



24 



TO PEN-MAR AND THE 




rOTOMAC RIVER AND CANAL AT AVILLI AJI'-POllT. 



CAA^EKXS OF I.URAY. 25 

Ttie Hotel, built by the lAiray Cave and Hotel Coiii])aiiy, 
together with the Kaiiroad improvements, has connected an- 
cient Luray with the living present. The hotel is situated 
upon an eminence immediately in front of the passenger de- 
pot and about 2()() yards from it. It is approached by a plank 
M'alk five feet wide, up an easy incline. It is built after the 
model of inns of Queen Anne's time, and being thoroughly 
in harmcn}' with the quaintness of its ancestors at once at- 
tracts attention. The picturesque irregularity, the absence 
of sides, the abundance of corners and nooks, iii fine, the vcr} 
shapelessness of the building charms the visitor. The first 
story is biiUt of lime stone (piarried in the near vicinity, and 
the second and third stories are built of the best seasoned 
wood material to be found. It is entered through a neat, 
covered carriage drive, which at night is illuminated by four 
l)right gas jets, one at each corner. A veranda twelve feet 
in widti), runs over two hundred linear feet around the 
building — a most delightful place for promenading in all 
sorts of weather as it is protected from storm and sun. The 
hall or large vestibule in which is the office, and into which 
open the parlor, and dining room, is roomy. The ceiling of 
this entrance is panelled in chestnut wood, and around the 
walls there is a beautiful wainscottino- of the same material. 
A huge fire place large enough to burn whole logs of wood 
adds to the appearance of the room. 

From the veranda on the morning of Friday we could see 
the clouds rolling up the mountain sides as the sun increased 
in power, and then lingering on the summit of "Stoney Man" 
refuse for a moment to leave its earthly tenement for a flight 
into everlasting space. 



:26 



TO PKN-MAK AND IHE 




CAVERNS OF f.URAY. 27 



CHAPTER Y. 

[] 

Entering the Cave. 

[] 

In the morning I walked out upon the veranda. The ele- 
vation of the hotel gives a fine view of Luray and the sur- 
rounding country. The town looked like a little gem set in 
a casket of silver — a pearl that had dropped from the hand 
and had fallen into a bowl of sapphire. The clear atmos- 
phere brought out everything with distinctness, and the ir- 
regular village with its ancient architecture, sitting upon the 
hillside, surrounded with Titanic walls of mountain, made a 
9cene of entrancing beauty. 

After telephonic communication from the Hotel to the 
Cave, Mr. R. R. Corson, the energetic and polished manager 
of tlie Luray Hotel and Cave C-ompany, informed us that he 
had engaged Mr. Andrew J. Campbell, one of the discoverers 
of the cave, as our guide. Soon the carriage arrived and we 
were driving in a bracing air through the quaint streets of 
Luray, over the hawk's Bill, and by an ancient water wheel 
that made its slow revolutions with the decrepid movement 
of age. 

A mile and a half's ride brings us to the mouth of the 
caverns. Over them has been built a house containing a par- 
lor for ladies, rooms for the guides, and a ticket office. 

The fee for entering the Cave is one dollar. 

An accideat to the engine prevented the use of the electric 
light. Our guide gave each of the adult>^ of our party a can 
die-stick wirh three candles in each. 



28 



lO I'KN-M Al{ AM) THK 




CAYKRISS OF LITKAY. 29 

AVe went down a stairway of ono linntlred feet and entered 
Infernos, but without its fires, and smoke, and torments. At 
tlie bottom of the steps we were informed that we were in 

The Grand Entrance. 

The roof rises thirty-five feet above us, and is almost lost 
to sight in the feeble fiickei- of our penny eandles. The ceil- 
ing' is solid limestone, and the Anenne stretches along the 
impenetrable darkness for one hundred feet. Anticipation 
generally o'erleaps realization, but the almost tangible 
darkness, the great number of wonderful forms, and the grim 
sliadows and undefined nooks far exceeded expcitancy. One 
of the sights of this chamber is Washington's column, a pil- 
lar, nearly twenty-five feet in diameter and very highly ftuted 
and beautifully tinted.' Above our heads hung myriads of 
stalactites, at our feet and above us rose mighty stalagmites. 
The first emotions on entrance are those of surprise and awe, 
influences engendered by our surroundings. We are in a new 
world — wonderful and weird. Inconceivible shapes attack 
our visions, new sights burst upon, and things before unimag- 
ined appear to our wel]-}ugh dazed comprehension. Darkness 
and shimmering beams fight for mastery, glowing columns 
rivet our admiration, flowing fountains and crystal streams 
excite our delight, whilst grotesques images surprise our 
imagination on every hand. AVe are in wonderland. 

Beyond this vestibule, through a natural pathway in the 
cave, to the left, rises a plot of ground studded with fungoid 
and stalactites. This has received the name of 

The Flower Garden, 
From the beautiful varities of its incrustations. 
We now pass through the Amphitheatre, a high chamber, 
suggestive of an audience hall; over the Muddy Lake, upon 
an artificial cement walk; see the Natural Bridge, a small 
rock hanging overhead, and suddenly come to tlie 

Fish Market. 

This, like the Flo\/er Garden, is on the left, and 's one 
ot the most perfect representatoins of things in and above 
the upper world that we saw in the entire Cavern. Here on 
tJK' side of the wall hang hundreds sheetlike stalactites, re- 
presenting with great naturalness rows of fish, exposed for 
sale. We suggested that they would not sell so well as the 
fish in our market — a place noted for the abundance of the 
finey tribe. "Yes, they would," retorted the intelligent guide, 
whose pet-lamb had been attacked, "they would sell for 
more." Probably thev \,ould to curiosity hunters, but we 
had reference. to them as arffcles of diet. 



30 



TO PKN-MAK AM) THK 




CAVERN.S' OF LUJIAY. 31 

The Smithsoniap. party who visited the eavc in July, 1880,. 
said of this part of the Cavern : 

"indeed, one has no difHculty about the identification of 
the specie3 of bass, perch, sliad, mackerel, etc. ; some being 
gray all over, others having black backs and white bellies, 
and the illusion being perfected by a sufficient trickling to- 
gi'^'e a slimy, fishy appearance to the objects. All pronounced, 
this to be the most curious, though not by any moans the 
grandest and most impressive, object in the cavern." 



32 



TO TEN-MAR AND THE 




CAVERNS OF LUKAY. 33 



CHAPTER VT. 

[] 

From thk Frsii Maimcet to Skeleton Gorge. 

[]— 

After leaving; the Fisli Market, the s^uide took ns by a few 
steps to the 

Elfin Ramble. 

This is tlie onlv part of the cave in which there are no for- 
mations upon the ceiling. The roof the Elfin Ramble was 
so low, a path had to be dug some three or four feet deep to 
enable an adult to pass without crawling. As we walked 
along the guide pointed us to two pillars about two feet high 
and several inches thick, and warned us not to break them, 
as they supported the entire roof! AVe found on going 
through the cave the next day M'ith another guide tliat this 
Munchausen was a stock story, for tlie other made us tlie 
identical statement. 

Pluto's Chasm 

Is the next object of interest shown to us — a mighty fissure 
in the earth, 75 feet deep and 500 feet long. The guide, as 
was his wont v/hen he came to any object of especial interest, 
ligiited a magnesium tape, and as its sulphurous fires lit up 
the awful magnificence of the chasm's mammoth proportions, 
one found the yawning abyss fitly named. This rift is ten 
feet wide, and looking over the babistrade into this mighty 
ehasm, one is filled witii awe and astonishment. 

The guide leads us down a long flight of steps. Here we 
may as well remark that the Cave C'ompany })as built over 
dangerous places, jdntfornis an<l steps, and it is j)crtcctly safe 



.•U TO PEN-MAK AND IHK 

lor ai)y one to visit, the (.■averns, aiifl beside one can go in 
Avitli ordinary elotheson, tliongli it would be well for gentle- 
ni(!n to turn up their j)ants, and for ladies to %vear <lresses 
reaching Avithin an inch or two <»f the ground. The floor is not 
muddy bnt damji enough to bedraggle a trailing skirt. 

AVe have now reaelied the bottom of the chasui, and the 
sj)ectre -'a tall, now-white stalagmite," looms up in the dark- 
ness like a veritable ghost. At the far end of the Oaverfl, 
numbers of long stalactites present the appearance of an or- 
gan. Our guide did not seeui musical and played ns no tune, 
but the next day when out of sight of the performer we heard 
some one striking a sounding stidaetite. As the rhynithieal 
notes rolled up the dark caverns, it seemed as if we were in 
some vast cathedral, 

"AVhere through the long-drawn aisle and fretted vault. 
The pealing anthem swelled the rote of praise." 

AVe now retrace our steps to the Fish-Market because we 
had left the main avenue to take a view of Elfin Ramble, and 
Pluto's Chasm. As we go by the rocky ledge that leads t(» 
the Fish Market, a small lake called the 'K>ystal Spring," is 
seen in which the formation of calcite crystals is yet going 
on. It is a very beautiful object, the snow white crystals 
forming a pleasing contract with the brown color of the sur- 
ronnding rock. Now we come to 

SKEi.pyroN Gorge. 

Here embedded in carbonate of lime, are seen the bones of 
what science tells us was a youth of eighteen years. Tiie 
guide pickg up and hands us the larger bone of the arm. To 
us it apj)ears a human fossil — what conjectures it creates. 
How did it come here? Have the drifts that made this vast 
vault, invaded the sanctuary of the dead above and floated 
this skeleton into this stupendous sepulchre, or did in the ages 
primeval some venturesome soul, filled with heroic endeavor, 
att(nn])t to explore its unknown labyrinths and j)erished in 
the attempt ".' 



CAVERXS OF LURAY. 35 



CHAPTER VII. 

— [] 

The next object of particular interest is the Imperial 
Spring, about six feet long and several wide, deep and pel- 
ucid. The swinging of our tallow torches above it makes the 
far edge appear like a bridge and we seem to look in depths 
crystal and luminous. The guide then shows us the Branch 
Casket, a formation several feet high, and the same in width, 
of pure white stone, in shape as if the rippling waters of 
spring had been caught in their playful frolics by the stern 
grasp of winter and frozen to eternal ice. Proserpine's 
Pillar follows and in distance looms the wiiite form of 
''The Spectre," a huge stalagmite of carbonate of lime. 

We have now reached the head of Pluto's Chasm, and are 
shown a curious formation in the shage of a Mammoth Tooth. 

Now we come to 

Oberon's Grotto. 

This is reached by crossing Pluto's ('hasm on a bridge. — 
Here plays a small fountain, surrounded by countless num- 
bers of beautiful stalactites. As we leave this we come to a 
very curious stalactite called the Poor Man's Bacon. The 
guide placed h^s candles behind it and there shone the streaks 
of lean and lat. The lean was very thin. This formation 
has a legal history which is much better known than its geo- 
logical annals. Two different persons have broken the end 
off it — and both were caught, one by the dexterity of Mr. J. 
H Bushong, a guide, who sought his man out in a large 
crowd, on very little data and considerable speculation, and 
brought him to justicp, The piece ^ as reco\ered both times, 



36 TO PEN-MAR AND THE 

costing one thief |14 — for the laws of Virginia have provided 
against any disfigurement of the Cave. In spite of this the 
Company has suffered a great deal from depredators who 
want a relic. This is needless, beside dishonest, because the 
Company supplies youths with fine specimens from the Cave 
and these are hawked about the town of Tiuray, and can be 
bought for a trifie. But we have reached 

Titania's Veil. 

This is a delicate formation of beautiful hues and cx«piisi(e 
fringes, dangling gracefully from the roof Here is,the frozen 
Fountain. 80 natural is it that a little girl of our party an- 
nounced that it looked "just like it is frozen up." But it is 
of stone. We pass on to 

Diana's Bath. 

The floor of this room is covered with water, aud from it 
goes a path to Broddhus' Lake. This when we visited the cave 
was not open to visitors. This lake, probably eighty feet in di- 
ameter, received its title from a gentleman by the name of 
Brodaluis who lost his way in that part of the cave when 
making some explorations on his own account. He wandered 
several hours in these unfathomed abysses before he found a 
trail that led him to the upper day. 

After leaving Diana's Bath, we come to 

The Saracen's Tent. 

the majestic sweep of whose lordly proportions linger yet in 
freshest impressions. The folds of its curtains fall in beauti- 
ful drapery, and its wonderful faithfulness to the home of the 
wild Arab sheik makes it an object of unfailing interest. It 
is probably the most perfect representation we saw in the 
Cave. The height of the ceiling is about twenty feet. The 
diameter of the tent about fifteen. 

The Anoei.'s "Wing, a huge, clinging, j»ure white stalactite 
is next seen, and is a very fine representation of its heavenly 
title, that is, what angel wings are said to be. Now we pass 
under the Fai-len Column. Once it clung to the ceiling 
above, in company with numerous stalactites but today a 
ponderous mass of over fifty feet in length, and weighing four 
hundred tons, it lies dismantled in a hall of giants for 
above, clinging to the roof, arc many huge stalactites of even 
greater proportions than this fVUlcn warrior, the man of 
many ages. 



CAVERNS OF LURAT. 37 



CHAPTER Vril. 

FROM THE CATHEDRAL, TO THE UAr,E-UOOM AND GRAVE YARD. 

From the Fallen Coliuuu we went to the or^aii in 

The Cathedral, 

This ehaniber is eirevilar in form, and on its v^ast sides rnn 
<ralleries, "not made with hands," enrtains fail pendant from 
its walls, and cnrvinji; arches give beanty to its mystic pro- 
portions. From the ceilinos and walls han*!,' thin stalactitie 
formations, which when struck give forth delightful melody, 
and on this natural organ exact music can be rendered. Be- 
hind the (u-gan is the cushioned chair, and the pulpit. 

It was not usual to take visitors to some of the places that 
we saw, but our guide was especially accommodating and 
iaithful to the instructions given from headquarters. So one 
of these that we saw was a little bowl of water, some ten feet 
in diiimeter and three feet deep in the middle, called Chap- 
man's Lake. It received its name from a young man, Mr. 
Chapman, who was helping Mr. Campbell our guide, to do 
some work in that part of the cave. When he had finished, 
he blew out his torch and started to return to the main ave- 
nue. A step or two and he was floundering in this little lake, 
doubtless, to the amusement of the spectator. This was 
eighteen months before we saw it, and the print of Mr. Chap- 
man's footsteps lay imbedded yec in the bottom of these un- 
ruffled waters. 

Having, made a slight detour we now return to the main 
passage, and pass by ilie Fallen Column and reach the Tower 
of Babel, an excellent minature of what this ancient structure 
is represented to be. We still go on, for the reader has prob- 
ably found by this time tiiat to take a survey of the grandest 
caverns known to the world is not to be accomplished in a 
very brief space. Curious formations greet us everywhere ; 
here, a bunch of small potatoes — named for the first time, a 
few steps on stands a mute and motionless Indian Squaw, 
and we reach the 

Hall of the Giants. 

This is a magnificent chamber filled with immense columns, 
that have stood in this rayless darkness, and kept each other 
mute company f'or centuries. The Double Column is in this 
chamber and when the magnesium tape threw its bright glare 



n^ TO PEX-MAR AND THE 

over this woird formation tho spectaolo was inspiring. The 
Sraithsonian party says that ''( liants Hall is the chief d'rpiivro 
of this fair under-world. On the verge of a towering; cliff* the 
beholder faces this chamber of wonders. Strctchino; away 
TO the right is a seemino;ly interminable rows of prodi^gious. 
glittering; columns. They rise from out of the depths of 
shade and are lost in the overhanging gloom. The magnes- 
ium light suecessfulty combats these hosts of darkness and 
<lrives them into the alcoves and recesses above, beneath, and 
*Ai either side, revealing forms of giant dimensions, weird 
outlines, and infinite variety (»f ornament." 

The Giant's Staf!', for we are yet among the Grianis, is now 
seen as we move on to other sights. It is a high stalagmite 
.'lauding alone and by its proportions suggesting its title, in 
this Hall also hangs the largest stalactite of the world, de- 
pending almost forty feet from the ceiling, with a diameter of 
al)0ut six. Here too is the. Crouching Jjion, a monster stalag- 
mite, very marked in its resemblance to the king of the forest. 

We leave the (Hants in their silent chamber, and pass to the 

Bat.:. Room. 

This is the largest chamber in the cave. Here the people of 
tiie neighborhood have several times enjoyed the novelty of 
a ball. The trial of the "light fantastic" in these vast cav- 
erns of the earth attracted many spectators. The niusi(^ as 
it rolled away amid these deep recesses floated in unwonted 
harmonies, and the flickering rays of waxen tapers gk.red 
with poetic ferver over meny dancers and shone w ith won- 
drous witchery on gilded domes and spectral columns. 

A trick of the guide is to put the lights out here, and then 
we fairly felt the darkness. 

To one who did not know the |)aths it would be almost <-ertain 
death to attempt to find the entrance to the cave from the ball 
room — but so familiar has Mr. A. J. Campbell become with 
its winding labyrinths that he can make his way, without 
liglut, from any part of the cave to the np}>er day. 

As soon as our torches were relit, our guide ol)served — 
"Yon did not know yon were so near a gravevard '.'" We 
turned our heads to the right, and behind lay a subterranean 
cemetery. "Real?" "No, not exactly, but very sugges- 
tive." There were rows of stalagmatic head stones, big and 
little, that bring forcibly to mind that, 
"Perhaps in this neglected spot is laid, 

So)ne heart once pregnant with celestial fire. 
Hands that the rod of empire might have swayed, 

Or waked to ecstacv the living lyre," 



CAVERNS OF LURAY. 39 



CHAPTER IX. 

After leaving the oemetery we are sliown the Ladies' Riding Whip, and Cinderella 
leaving the ball room. Tlir'ough an opening- in a nave, we catch a glimpse of the niytiii- 
cal lady, this time in real marhle. Her white robes lall graijefuUy from her shoulders 
lo her feet, as she sweepn silently from the halls of gayety, and the wondering Prinee. 

Thb Caskkt Spring 

Is near, and with a few steps we reach it. We visited it when tlie season above was dry' 
and it had its effect upon this undeigiound spring, for it was almo.si di-y, and no longer 
ran from rippling fountain to rippling fountain again. But the si)ring is a remarkable 
formaiion of this subterranean woild. "Fluted stalatic columns, fifty feet in height 
form the back ground of the spring, and a royal canopy, fringed with the most exquisite 
drapery, stretches from the front, and is reflected Jrom its glass like surface. An opeu- 
inj£ in" the back ground, near the left of the liasin, reveals the small lake whence 
comes its supply of watei-."' 

The spring, as its name indicate^, lesembles very much a coflin. Below the first 
basin i.* another, and these successive terraces follow each ottier )<>r twenty feet, and, 
in wet weather, merry ripples fall frofn spring to spring. 

We now ascend an incline in the path, and the guide stops to take the top Irom a 
cavity in the tli>(>r. which has been appropriately .named the Bird's Nest. Four tiny 
white pebbles cio good service as eggs. 

The next object of interest shown is -'Collins' Grotto," named after Air. Collins of the 
New York H>:r.\i,u, who spent fourteen days in exploring the cm.' soon after it was dis-, 
covered. He wrote the tirst extensive account of its wonders, which rre.ueda sensation 
at the time. It may he interesting to and that he was wiili tlie .l^^aiinette in the 
Arctic ocean, and was fro/en to death with Lieut. De Long, near Lena River, Siberia. 

The inagnesinm tape is again lit, and the walls grow curious, and the ceilings 
wonderful. 

We return now to the ball room, for there is no straight course tiirough these cavern- 
ou.s cells, and .tie shown the Hanging Rock and then reach the entrance of 

Campbell Hall, 

And as the guide liurns again tlie sulphurous tape, we look back. an<l by common cou- 
sent,'pronounce the view most magnificent, and the vista the most stupendous of any 
we have yet seen. As we pass in the hall we see a snow ball half embedded in the 
ground. Campbell Hall is a beautiiul ciiamber. fifty by forty, filled with splendid 
statuary. From this hall to the corrider we are taken to see the single .*<cale C'olumu 
of the cave, the JSaked Foot, and the Salt Spring. 

After the Double Column we leave again the main route, and are taken to .see the 
Lost Blanket. The guide places a light liehind this stalactite, and the folds of a 
liungiug blanket are brought in sight. The folds, color, wool, and stripe of th«- 
blanket are perfect. Here are seen the CJomet Column, the Hollow Column, ItKi feet in 
circumlereaceand'4(i feet high, and the Crouching Camel. The head, buitip and tail of the 
Jatttrare very plainly marked. Here too;l8 the Kmpress Column, a beautiful white pillar, 
looking as though it were a falling fountain of snowy waters. This column obtained 
its uaHte from a geutlenian who, ou seeing this beautiful object, said 'Tf I wished ii/ 
gaiu the favor of the Empress oi all the Rusuias. by making her a present, and had the 
whole world tu choose from, I'd give her thiai column." 



A^^^^/^^ 



40 TO PEN-MAK ANP THE CAVERNS OK I.ttRAY. 

CHAPTKR X. 

y\e were shown the Cactus Column, anJ r«turne(l to the miiin route at Titania's Veil, 
"a dainty, lacelike lahrio, hangiug giacelully from its rock suppori." 

At this point we met another party "doing the cave." under the cliarge o) a guide, 
.••ind alter leaving Skeleton <ioige we met still others. This time they were lour ladles 
and a baliy. Tne next day we met the guide wlm had ttiis party in charge, and he 
ubserved in a good natured" way ; — I ••cauglit it yesterday. That woman gave out, and 1 
had to carry the baby the resiol the way." 

Into tiie ampliilheatie we come and are oiire more .shown the Flower Garden. We 
also visit Steboins" Avenue and .see a I'yraraid ol Cake, with a pine apple on top. 
From this point we .tre taken to the Blacksmith .Shop. Here are two very perieui 
anvils, the forge, and, above it, tne accumulated du.st oi ages. 

The lloruei'tf ^e»i !.•< the la.>st object of interest shown, anrl then we mount the stair- 
way :ind greet -'tlie warm precint.s of the cheerful day" with real deli!:;hi. 

The impres.sion.s of ihi.-* visit were those of awe and wonder, for ''the half had not 
been tola us."' It v»as some hours before ilie impressions wore otf. 

The next day we had the plea.sure of visiting the cave in company with Thoiua* 
Moran, the artist, one of that numerous family oi talented men. His sou I'aul accom 
panied nim. They were on a profe.s.sional tour in charge of the energetic B. V. Bond, 
passenger agent, B. & O. Koad. From this lour came the deligeiful Picturesque H. & u. 
Mr. Panghorn the author was detained in Baltimore, prohabij' by me smt^ing oi the 
lialtimore.Oriole. 

Mr. Moran made foui- sketches in the cave under the gl.are of electric light for the 
engine had been unexpectedly repaired. The diange in the appearance ol the oave 
was extraordinary, 'i he electric iieam brought otit beauties tiiat the pale glow of the 
magnesium tape had failed to di.sclose, and the sharp delineations that it made against 
the lieavy shauo"ws of this strange world gave new wonders and delights to those who 
saw this dwelling place ol flies, rats, mice, bats and gnomes. 

CHAPTER XI. 

I)JSC0VKRy OK THE C.^VKRNS. 

It was not until August 15, lx~S, that the.<<e interesting caverns were known to the 
present generation of man. 

The discoverers were b. P. Stebbins of Kaston, Maryland, a traveling photographer, 
and Messrs. A J. and \Vm. B. Campbell. 

It was not an accident. They were in hunt of a cave, and as cave-hunters liad.excited 
the friendly derision of their acquaintances. 

Mr. "Stebbins was the originiitor ol the suggestion, and after trying many places as 
the object cf their search, they found on tliedajlc named, a uepressioii, or sink-hole, on 
a hill ftide near Luray. It was about ten Icel deep, and lorty in diameter. It was filled 
with rubbish and overgrown with weeds. .Vfier much labor and no little ridicule from 
the bystanders a hole was iimde and a current ol air Irom below told of depths 
))eyonu. Alter widening tlie aperture still more, Jlr. A. ■). Campbell was lowered by 
means of a lope, and lenoheij the bottom nod wi;h lighted candle i.eered in the darkness 
and saw witli wonder and delight, the cuiioiis Iinmation about him. Tiie rest of the 
party becoming aiai med lor mm, W. B. C'limpljeli w em in search of the exploier, and 
together they returned to the upper world, 'they told the bystanders they bad discov- 
ered nothing, but when the tnree got togeilier by thenjselve.'i the Campbells lold 
Stebbins what they had seen. .\t night they came wilh great caiitiou and a large sup- 
ply of candles and proceeded to examine tlie cave. 'I'hew went as far as Muddy 1-ake, 
ihen a l)ody of water. Ketuining to the world above, they concluded to buy mat pan 
ot the world below that they had discovered. 

They bought it soon alter at an assignee's saJe, and shortly opened their new wonders 
to the public. Ihen the original owners found what they had lost and began litiga- 
tion to secure this valuable property. 

I'he decision below was in favor of 8tebbins, Campbell & Co. The Court of Appeals 
in the spring of ISHl reversed the decision, and it was no sooner recorded than llie 
Luray Cave and Hotel Company purchased the cave lor $-lu,0«0. The tract containing 
the cave was only 2S'.^ acres, and had ■-•ost .Messrs. .Stebbins, Campbell & Co., but .*1T per 
IK re. Jiarge additions liave since been made by the Company to iheir original pui<;hase. 

The next question the thrifty will .ask is, '"What does ii cost to go to Luray I Kound 
trip tickets uo.-n Baltimore to l.iiray, good till Oct. :!lst., ar«' sold during the summei- 
season iiy the Westein Maryland K<iad, for ^.S.oO, and tickets limited to five days .sell lor 
S8.10. With an enterprise worthy of encourugcmenr, the "Western Maryland Road is now 
selling return excursion tickets to l.urfiy liom Baltimore good for" one day at *y.o«'. 
All these prices include the admission lo tlie ("ave. 

The excursion train leaves the Hillon Street Depot, Baltimore, on cerUvin advertised 
days, about .seven o'clock, A. M., and reaches Ijuray time enough to give three hours m 
the Cave— a period sufficient to see it preiiv ilioroughlv. and gels back to Baltimore 
about U, P. M. 



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